Louisville is a pretty darn cool town, y’all. Big enough to have tons of amenities, but small enough that you can get around easily between our interesting inner-ring neighborhoods. Southern enough to be featured in Southern Living, but not Southern enough for sweet tea to be the default. (Indiana is right across the river, after all.)
When I was a teenager, I never imagined I’d be living here as an adult, but here I am. It’s not a perfect city, by any means, and there is much I would change if I could snap my fingers and make it so. But we have a vibrant arts culture, a truly amazing food scene, and walkable, shop-able neighborhoods like Crescent Hill, Nulu, and the Highlands—and because of our size, these great features are incredibly easy to access. (A big factor is also the specific first-ring suburb Will and I have chosen for our family—we can zip in and out of downtown in ten minutes flat.)
It’s been fascinating to watch our city grow and evolve in recent years: bourbon tourism has exploded, which I have mixed feelings about. But I have zero mixed feelings about the increased frequency with which friends and family from all over the country are visiting Louisville because they’re coming for a couples bourbon weekend, or as part of a bachelor party or corporate team-building weekend. Whatever the reason for their visit, I’m grateful that I’m getting to see visitors for coffee more often because they’re tourists in my town.
We’ve also become an increasingly popular destination for art fairs (though the annual St. James Court Art Show has been a huge regional event for my entire life and is well worth a visit) and music festivals. Bourbon and Beyond has EXPLODED in recent years (that 2024 lineup, oh my stars), Forecastle is huge (though didn’t take place this year), and many other smaller festivals are held throughout the year.
Whether you’re building your trip around a specific event or coming for a leisurely weekend, I hope you find some good stuff to explore in my list. I could have gone on forever, but this collection of favorites is a solid start to planning your time in Louisville.
Bookstores and Literary Sights
Carmichael’s Bookstore. Louisville’s original independent bookstore (since 1978!). Two locations in two great neighborhoods: Crescent Hill (my typical location) and the Highlands (the one I am happy to visit three times a year). Carmichael’s Kids, a dedicated kids’ store, is two doors down from the Highlands location.
Butcher Cabin Books. This tiny horror bookstore is a newer addition to the Louisville book scene, with a great little highly curated selection of horror, mystery, and related nonfiction.
A Novel Romance. This romance bookstore opened in a teeny tiny location in Middletown two years ago and just moved to a much larger location in J-town this summer. The vibes are so good! And the selection—and merch—are fantastic.
Daisy Buchanan’s house. Historians and lit-lovers disagree on which Highlands home actually served as inspiration for Daisy’s home in The Great Gatsby, but I don’t need an excuse to wander through the gorgeous Cherokee Triangle neighborhood and check out the contenders. Swing by while you’re visiting the Highlands location of Carmichael’s, or go for a stroll in nearby Cherokee Park.
4th & Walnut. A plaque here commemorates the spot where Thomas Merton, a Trappist monk, author, and activist, had his noted epiphany.
Coffee
Butchertown Grocery Bakery. My favorite! Excellent coffee in a beautiful setting evocative of a European café,
Sunergos Coffee. Sunergos used to be off my beaten path, but in recent years they’ve added locations in the Highlands (on Norris Place) and in St. Matthews (on Willis Ave) and now I’m a frequent customer. Other locations include U of L, Iroquois Park, and downtown.
Quill’s Coffee. Great coffee, beautiful stores. My favorite locations are the gorgeous one on East Main in Nulu, the new one on Frankfort Avenue that serves coffee in cheerful yellow mugs, and the tiny but convenient shop on Brownsboro Road. Other locations include Highlands, U of L, and St Matthews.
Barista Parlor. This was a destination coffee shop for Will and me when they first opened a decade ago in Nashville. Now we’ve got a location in downtown Louisville! As it’s in the wide-open, high-ceilinged main floor of a large office building, the ambiance isn’t exactly cozy, but the coffee makes up for it.
Breakfast and Bakeries
Blue Dog Bakery & Café. The best in the city. Their bread is on the tables of nearly every fancy restaurant in town. Don’t miss their sister butcher/restaurant Red Hog down the street. (Crescent Hill)
Butchertown Grocery Bakery. I prefer the coffee to the baked goods, but the atmosphere is top-notch and the breakfast sandwiches are fantastic.
Wild Eggs. Multiple locations including downtown, Middletown, and Westport Village. I always say I’m going to branch out, but then I always get the chilaquiles—and am never disappointed.
Wiltshire Pantry. I’m a Blue Dog devotee, but some argue that Wiltshire has the best croissants in Louisville. They have a rotating collection of daily soups, good sandwiches, and beautiful baked goods. I frequent the Barrett Avenue location; there’s also one downtown.
Restaurants
Proof on Main. Smack in the heart of downtown in the 21c Museum Hotel, which is worth a peek inside. (Don’t miss the bathrooms.) Southern influenced cuisine and seasonal cocktails (though recently the house-made tonic has been my go-to nonalcoholic drink of choice). The free museum features national and international art and installations. This is one of the best spots in town and a frequent choice for our celebration dinners. (21c is our most-recommended hotel to visitors for the all-around experience, but if you want a fabulous pool go to the Omni. Fun fact: the Omni is where I finished my edits for Don’t Overthink It.)
Decade. With its neighborhood vibe and elevated cuisine, this is another place we end up visiting for birthdays and anniversaries. Located in Butchertown.
Seviche. This upscale Latin fusion restaurant in the Highlands is a personal favorite.
Nami Restaurant. This Korean steakhouse is the newest restaurant from nationally known chef Edward Lee and it’s such good fun. (I’m sure his best-known restaurant 610 Magnolia belongs on this list—except I haven’t been yet!)
Red Hog. We end up at the sister restaurant to Blue Dog Bakery & Café all the time; it’s the closest thing Louisville has to a European bistro. We especially like the patio dining, open year-round.
Ice Cream
Graeter’s. This section used to be longer, but really: Graeter’s is the city’s best, with multiple locations including St Matthews and the Highlands.
Neighborhoods
Nulu. My #1 recommendation for local shopping and dining. Don’t miss my favorite plant store Mahonia!
Crescent Hill and Clifton. These abutting neighborhoods just east of the city are also home to a good number of local shopping, dining, and coffee options, plus a Carmichael’s location and a Carnegie library.
Highlands. Nulu and Butchertown are now challenging the Highlands’ long-held status as THE destination for fine dining in Louisville (as well as excellent casual dining), but it still boasts a high concentration of excellent restaurants, plus local shops.
Things to See and Do
Louisville City FC and Racing Louisville FC. That’s right: we have both men’s and women’s professional soccer clubs! (Butchertown)
Louisville Bats. The Triple-A affiliate of the Cincinnati Reds. I’m a fair-weather baseball fan but these games are always a good time.
Waterfront Park. A popular hang-out spot and home to frequent events, concerts, fairs, and festivals. Walk the Big Four Bridge. If you’re visiting with kids check out the nearby splash park as well.
Bernheim Forest and Arboretum. Great hiking, 30 minutes south of Louisville.
Cherokee Park. Louisville has a fabulous Frederick Law Olmsted-designed parks system; Cherokee is our favorite. (Highlands)
Louisville Loop is a 100-mile trail system that will eventually encircle the city. We often drive out to various Parklands parks on the city’s edge for hiking and biking.
Waterfront Botanical Gardens. Our botanical garden is very much under development: it’s been exciting to watch it get this far! Free and open to the public and worth a quick look. (River Road)
Kentucky Science Center. Now that the kids are older we’re hardly ever here—but this is Kentucky’s largest science museum and a big destination for families. (Downtown)
Louisville Zoo. 134 acres in the Poplar Level neighborhood. A new baby giraffe was just born this week!
Louisville Slugger Museum. Even if you’re only a halfhearted baseball fan, this is a great museum. If you’re in the area be sure to goggle at the 120 foot-high baseball bat out front on Main Street. (Downtown)
Kentucky Museum of Arts and Craft. Don’t let the name mislead you: this is a contemporary art museum with a very cool gift shop. (Downtown)
Mammoth Cave. This national park is only 90 minutes from downtown.
Churchill Downs. Home to the Twin Spires, the Kentucky Derby, and live racing in season. (Near U of L)
The Urban Bourbon Trail and The Bourbon Trail. Bourbon country is just outside Louisville in Central Kentucky. Explore the historic distilleries of Kentucky’s beautiful countryside, on your own or by guided tour.
Do you have any favorite places to visit in Louisville? Please share in the comments. (Please note I published this original city guide in 2017 and while today’s new version reflects massive updates on the original, I’ve kept the original comments. Enjoy!)
